I don't think I've ever read anything quite like James A. Michener's IBERIA. The book merged history, both personal and worldly, and travelogue in such a brilliant way that I was never bored, not for one page! Michener organized chapters by region, and Robert Vavra's glorious black and white photographs added so much to the experience.
It's weird but I do honestly feel as if I have a better understanding of my own country (and consequently... myself) after reading this book.
Michener has a fiery passion for Spain, which he visited for the first time as a college student, then kept going back over the course of 40 years (the book was published by Random House in 1968).
Before picking up this book, I had rather hostile feelings towards Spain (as any Filipino patriot would). But now it's in the bucket list! To see and tread where Michener has gone, in search of the elusive authentic flamenco, paella, and toreador... to see its "poems of stone" in cathedrals Gothic and Romanesque, to make the pilgrimage along the Way of St. James, to witness the beauties of kingdoms where Muslims, Christians, and Jews lived side by side until torn asunder by intolerance.
There is much to learn from Mother Spain, as a warning as to what can happen when creativity and learning are stifled, when one way of thinking is brutally enforced and all critical thought stamped out. Michener claims Spain's weakness was its prolonged inquisition. We look to its past, hopefully in time to change our own country's course.
Oh and I've finally learned who Juan dela Cruz is!!! Hahaha.
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From the chapter "Badajoz" we learn of Extremadura, the harsh unforgiving land where the greatest and cruellest of Spain's explorers came from, the likes of Hernan Cortes and Vasco Nunez de Balboa. It was in this region where the Romans built roads and bridges still in use as of the time of Michener's trip, and where the Guardia Civil travelled in pairs on horseback to keep the peace amongst gypsies and farmers.
In this chapter, too, Michener introduces us to key elements of Spanish culture: duende, gracia, and viva yo. If duende is that mysterious mix of passion and magic, then gracia renders even the ugly girl charming. But I was particularly struck with viva yo, which Michener roughly translates as "Hurray for me, and to h*ll with everyone else." I see this indifference to the collective good in my own countrymen, and I have to wonder... is this a legacy from 300 years of Spanish rule? Or uniquely ours?
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Michener's chapter on Toledo will make you laugh at the inconveniences of too many tourists in the stronghold of Catholic Spain, home to Cardinals Mendoza and Cisneros and great works of art by Goya and El Greco... but then the section on the Siege of the Alcazar in 1936 will touch many to the point of tears.
Michener writes of Colonel Moscardo, charged with defending around 1760 men, women, and children in the ancient fortress, who successfully defended the keep for 70 days against the Republicans. On the 3rd day they telephoned the colonel to report that they held his 16 year old son Luis hostage.
Luis: Papa!
Mosc: What's happening, son?
L: They say they're going to shoot me if you don't surrender.
M: Then commend your soul to God, shout Viva España & Viva Cristo Rey, & die like a hero.
L: A very strong kiss, Papa.
M: Goodbye, my son, a very strong kiss.
Aaaaaaa!!!!! T.T
Michener writes of Colonel Moscardo, charged with defending around 1760 men, women, and children in the ancient fortress, who successfully defended the keep for 70 days against the Republicans. On the 3rd day they telephoned the colonel to report that they held his 16 year old son Luis hostage.
Luis: Papa!
Mosc: What's happening, son?
L: They say they're going to shoot me if you don't surrender.
M: Then commend your soul to God, shout Viva España & Viva Cristo Rey, & die like a hero.
L: A very strong kiss, Papa.
M: Goodbye, my son, a very strong kiss.
Aaaaaaa!!!!! T.T
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In Cordoba we meet her sons, "the finest pagan (Seneca), the finest church man (Hosius), the outstanding Jew (Maimonides) and the most brilliant Muslim (Averroës)," as well as Manuel de Falla.
Michener includes excerpts from the play DON ALVARO, which inspired Verdi's opera LA FORZA DEL DESTINO, set in the true to life village of Hornachuelos.
He writes, "A recurring theme of Spanish history is the failure of the Spaniards, no matter in what part of the world they find themselves, to develop a workable system of self government."
Michener also mentions Louis Bertrand's analysis that the "excessive individualism of the Spaniard, his tendency towards anarchy, is a Muslim inheritance..." which makes me wonder: what good does finger pointing to outside cultures do? At SOME point we need to take responsibility of our past and fix ourselves!
Michener includes excerpts from the play DON ALVARO, which inspired Verdi's opera LA FORZA DEL DESTINO, set in the true to life village of Hornachuelos.
He writes, "A recurring theme of Spanish history is the failure of the Spaniards, no matter in what part of the world they find themselves, to develop a workable system of self government."
Michener also mentions Louis Bertrand's analysis that the "excessive individualism of the Spaniard, his tendency towards anarchy, is a Muslim inheritance..." which makes me wonder: what good does finger pointing to outside cultures do? At SOME point we need to take responsibility of our past and fix ourselves!
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The chapter on SEVILLA, with its immersive description of what Holy Week is like, has got to be one of the best examples of doing justice to the setting. When Michener writes of the floats and the brawls to fight for the honor of holding up the statue, it's almost as if he was describing a Catholic procession in Manila as well.
"When this float comes through Sierpes, Jesus Christ himself is in that street."
We are also introduced to handsome bull fighters and 2 immortal works of art set in Seville: Bizet's CARMEN and Rossini's THE BARBER OF SEVILLE.
Michener also writes scathingly of the nobility: "In Spain a contempt developed for anyone who worked with his hands, especially farmers. It became an actual disgrace, from which a family could not cleanse itself, for a member to work at agriculture; inevitably, the land suffered."
This lack of respect for manual labor, this pretentiousness and gross disrespect for holy and honest work, is also visible in the Philippines. :'(
"When this float comes through Sierpes, Jesus Christ himself is in that street."
We are also introduced to handsome bull fighters and 2 immortal works of art set in Seville: Bizet's CARMEN and Rossini's THE BARBER OF SEVILLE.
Michener also writes scathingly of the nobility: "In Spain a contempt developed for anyone who worked with his hands, especially farmers. It became an actual disgrace, from which a family could not cleanse itself, for a member to work at agriculture; inevitably, the land suffered."
This lack of respect for manual labor, this pretentiousness and gross disrespect for holy and honest work, is also visible in the Philippines. :'(
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Madrid has got to be the meatiest chapter, in terms of the sheer number of ideas being exchanged in tertulias with marquises, writers, thinkers, and artists.
Michener even records an entire conversation with Filipino artist Fernando M. Zobel, founder of the Museum of Spanish Abstract Art in Cuenca.
Topics ranged from politics ("This is Spain and control will always rest in traditional hands, like that of the Church, the army, and the landed families.") to religion ("Unless I join the Opus Dei, I am going to be slowly excluded from the really important things I want to do."), as well as lengthy discussions on art and the zarzuela.
I am left with the insane desire to highlight entire passages, but out of respect for the book's age and rarity, I settled on taking pictures instead. :)
Again, I am overcome with this weird sense of recognition. The parallelisms with the Philippines keep piling up.
Michener even records an entire conversation with Filipino artist Fernando M. Zobel, founder of the Museum of Spanish Abstract Art in Cuenca.
Topics ranged from politics ("This is Spain and control will always rest in traditional hands, like that of the Church, the army, and the landed families.") to religion ("Unless I join the Opus Dei, I am going to be slowly excluded from the really important things I want to do."), as well as lengthy discussions on art and the zarzuela.
I am left with the insane desire to highlight entire passages, but out of respect for the book's age and rarity, I settled on taking pictures instead. :)
Again, I am overcome with this weird sense of recognition. The parallelisms with the Philippines keep piling up.
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In Salamanca, Michener ponders the lasting legacy of the Spanish inquisition and the intolerance it fostered, and its impact on the once great University of Salamanca and the cultural life of the country. Michener claims the Inquisition (lasting until 1826!) caused Spain's decline.
"With its castration, the spark of national vitality ebbed... a few hundred students mouthed cautious doctrine taught by frightened professors."
"An oyster can live to itself but without grains of sand for agitation, it cannot produce pearls."
I was deeply moved with the anecdote of philosopher-poet Miguel de Unamuno, the Rector of the University, who in 1936 publicly berated Gen. Jose Millan Astray after the latter cried "down with intelligence, long live death!"
Unamuno said that the general was a cripple both in body and mind... "and that because of his own withered nature, he was determined to enforce on healthy Spain his sickly philosophy."
To which Franco said: "If necessary, shoot him."
With all the repression going on today, this chapter hits close to home.
"With its castration, the spark of national vitality ebbed... a few hundred students mouthed cautious doctrine taught by frightened professors."
"An oyster can live to itself but without grains of sand for agitation, it cannot produce pearls."
I was deeply moved with the anecdote of philosopher-poet Miguel de Unamuno, the Rector of the University, who in 1936 publicly berated Gen. Jose Millan Astray after the latter cried "down with intelligence, long live death!"
Unamuno said that the general was a cripple both in body and mind... "and that because of his own withered nature, he was determined to enforce on healthy Spain his sickly philosophy."
To which Franco said: "If necessary, shoot him."
With all the repression going on today, this chapter hits close to home.
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Michener's chapter about Pamplona, "the heart of Navarra," is a work of sheer joy! While I'll never understand the pursuit of virility and proof of bravery that drives thousands of men to run before the bulls during the festival of San Fermin, it was still great fun to read conversations with close pals of Ernest Hemingway, fellow bull lovers who risk life and limb once a year, despite being over the age of 60!
Michener tells of grand picnics to and fro the basilica of St.Ignatius of Loyola, the Caves of Altamira, and the magic fog that settled in the Pass of Roncesvalles, made famous in the Song of Roland. He also discusses the contributions of musicologist Felipe Pedrell to the likes of Albeniz, Granados and Falla ("His songs live in all of us.").
This paragraph on the oboes of Pamplona has got to be one of the best pieces of musical writing POR SIEMPRE:
"If there is sweeter music on earth I have not heard it. The sound that comes from these old oboes is like the whispering of a thousand birds at dawn; it is the fairy music that elves dance to; it is the Middle Ages captured in haunting notes, and long after all else in Pamplona has been forgotten, these delicious sounds will echo in the memories of men and women... those who were awakened at Pamplona by the oboes...would have tears in their eyes."
Michener tells of grand picnics to and fro the basilica of St.Ignatius of Loyola, the Caves of Altamira, and the magic fog that settled in the Pass of Roncesvalles, made famous in the Song of Roland. He also discusses the contributions of musicologist Felipe Pedrell to the likes of Albeniz, Granados and Falla ("His songs live in all of us.").
This paragraph on the oboes of Pamplona has got to be one of the best pieces of musical writing POR SIEMPRE:
"If there is sweeter music on earth I have not heard it. The sound that comes from these old oboes is like the whispering of a thousand birds at dawn; it is the fairy music that elves dance to; it is the Middle Ages captured in haunting notes, and long after all else in Pamplona has been forgotten, these delicious sounds will echo in the memories of men and women... those who were awakened at Pamplona by the oboes...would have tears in their eyes."
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Michener tell us that Barcelona in the 1960's was the intellectual capital of the country, with its liberal students and families that devour books, its poets ("The measure of a contemporary society is whether it can support poets") and Catalan nationalists, its grand theatre and opera house ("We have a bigness of spirit... a singing of the heart.")
However, Michener arrived at a time that hired goons would wait for liberal professors after their lectures, to beat them up outside. It was a time when students were rallying after classes were closed to them.
"The government fears us... in Spain the educated man is held in contempt."
However, Michener arrived at a time that hired goons would wait for liberal professors after their lectures, to beat them up outside. It was a time when students were rallying after classes were closed to them.
"The government fears us... in Spain the educated man is held in contempt."
